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Hackles are up in 'dress down' City
But for one of Britain's City giants, 'dressing down' has turned into a stone-washed nightmare. So many management consultants have been turning up at Andersen Consulting in back-to-front baseball caps, elasticated waistbands and trainers that managers have been forced to spell out a strict 'smart casual' dress code. The new rules have been condemned as 'sartorial Stalinism' by combat-trousered staff. Two weeks ago Gordon Gekko's pinstriped offspring celebrated when Willie Jamieson,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], a senior partner,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], announced 'a more relaxed dress style in our UK offices in keeping with the new personality of the firm and the approach already adopted by many of our clients'. There was no need 'to resort to detailed guidelines' on how to dress down, he said. Out went Savile Row charcoal grey, Turnbull Asser shirts, polka dot ties and lace-up brogues. In came chinos,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], combats, Velcro and Nike's new Air Deschutz VIIIs. But days later Jamieson, 63, turned his corduroy-clad back on the experiment. 'Dress down' had turned into 'plain scruffy',[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], he fumed. In a terse memo - neatly coinciding with London Fashion Week - he said only a handful of staff had 'adopted the true style of business casual - a well-cut pair of trousers or a smart skirt and a tailored shirt'. Our man in the open-necked striped shirt, canary-yellow, lambswool V-neck, pale grey slacks and tassled loafers warned: 'Others still have to hit the right note. A number have interpreted business casual as the type of clothes you might wear at the weekend - jeans,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], sweaters, sweatshirts etc. This is not what we mean.' Not even suit-wearers escaped Jamieson's sartorial censure. 'Wearing a suit and business shirt with the tie removed fails to hit the mark. I hope in the next few weeks we see more people setting the right tone.' The dressing-down has provoked an anything but casual response from the firm's staff. 'What are they going to do? Send the clothes police round, frogmarch us down the high street chanting "Down with Slip-Ons" and force us into the nearest 'Suits You Sir' store to buy a single-breasted blazer with gold buttons, diamond-patterned golf sweater and pleat-fronted Sloaney labrador cords?' Another said: 'When you dress down in your own way, you feel more relaxed, so you like your job more and you perform better. If we all have to wear grey flannels, white shirts and leather blousons, the office will end up looking like a convention of minicab drivers.' But Jamieson is as unmoved as his Monday morning tie. 'All of our people should look at home in the boardrooms of our clients,' he said. And he has his supporters. Tony Stephens,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], head of sales at 40 Savile Row, which is one of the few bespoke tailors to offer made-to-measure casual wear, said: 'A lot of men are clueless when it comes to casual wear. They either look like members of the Royle Family or they go so high fashion they look like they're on the pull. I recommend fashionably cut pants with a flat front and frog-mouth pockets. It's a look that says "you can trust me with your money".' Smart casual or sartorial sacrilege? MARLBORO MAN WHO: Jeremy Clarkson, Lovejoy, fortysomethings who should know better WHAT: High-waist faded jeans, lumberjack shirt, trainers, leather jacket, packet of 20 Marlboro THE LOOK SAYS: 'I've given up' WHERE TO GET IT:All over England SPORTS CASUAL WHO: Alan Partridge, Jimmy Tarbuck, Essex man WHAT: Pringle diamond pattern V-neck, cream action slacks,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], brown tasselled loafers, driving gloves THE LOOK SAYS: 'I'm in control of my vehicle' WHERE TO GET IT: Burtons,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], Man at C PREPPY WHO: Tony Blair on holiday, Glen Hoddle, Dr Niles Crane from Frasier WHAT: Polo shirt with polo player logo,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], linen,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], deck shoes with socks THE LOOK SAYS: 'I am a total square/repressed homosexual' WHERE TO GET IT: Brooks Bros, Ralph Lauren. MARRIED WITH CHILDREN WHO: Lorraine Kelly,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], Judy Finnigan WHAT: Anything that covers the knee, calf,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], bulging tum and cellulite THE LOOK SAYS: 'My husband is probably having an affair but I know he won't leave because of the kids' WHERE TO GET IT: Debenhams in Guildford CLUB CHICK WHO: Zoe Ball,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], Nicole Appleton of All Saints WHAT: Techno-stretch,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], cowskin accessories THE LOOK SAYS: 'I may be in the office job I always swore I would never do but I'm a wacky funster by night, boys' WHERE TO GET IT: New Look,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], Diesel, Vexed Generation
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