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Dressing Southern belles
The costumes in "The Help," the film based on the bestselling novel by Kathryn Stockett, offer a glimpse into the fashions of the "Mad Men"-era South. Unlike their cosmopolitan counterparts employed by the Sterling Cooper Agency in New York City in the early 1960s, the Southern belles in Jackson,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], Miss. were dressing for the bridge club, not the secretarial pool.
For costume designer Sharen Davis, that meant hyper-feminine dresses in Easter egg shades, with bold floral prints,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], modest necklines and full skirts nipped at the waist.
"This is probably the most color I've ever used in my life," said Davis, whose credits include "Dreamgirls" and "Ray." "And it is the very first time I have not used a color palette for a film. Each of the women had her very own story, her very own home and her own color palette."
Davis built 50 costumes on your own using vintage fabrics rest were sourced from costume rental shops and vintage stores). The task was challenging because the film, which opens Wednesday, was shot in Greenwood, Miss.,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], where resources were nil. "The only store is a Walmart. There wasn't even a Starbucks or perhaps a Target," she said. for fittings on the weekends."
Help" involves Skeeter Phelan (Emma Stone). Freshly graduated from Ole Miss, she's prepared to put marriage and family on hold to obtain a job in journalism,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], and, ultimately, to write a magazine about black maids employed in the Jim Crow South. Not surprisingly, her proto-feminism is met with disdain from her bridge club peers, especially her friend, Hilly Holbrook (Bryce Dallas Howard). paid keen focus on the facts of every outfit, just as a Southern social butterfly would. She spent $15,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych],000 alone on period accessories, including patent leather structured handbags with matching shoes,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], pearl choker necklaces and cluster earrings, cat's eye sunglasses and garden party-festive hats.
If there is a Joan Holloway in "The Help," it's fish-out-of-water Celia Foote (Jessica Chastain), an urban area newcomer whose hourglass figure and clingy clothes leave little to the imagination. "In it, the character loved Marilyn Monroe, so we stayed with this. We padded poor Jessica with bigger breasts and bigger hips. We used waist-cinchers too. It is a very Hollywood look but tacky and country."
Davis first considered old Vogue magazines for research, but found the looks too fashionable for everyday people. "Jackson is an extremely small town, and women there might happen to be watching the style of Jackie O, but they were 2 yrs behind her in fashion."
So she looked to 1960s-era Sears, JC Penney and Montgomery Ward catalogs instead. Seventeen magazine seemed to be a guide. "There's a line in the book that describes these women as 'babies making babies,' and that's the things they were," Davis said.
Except for Skeeter. "Skeeter was a small tomboy. She didn't care how she looked. Her objective ended up being to appear business-like, not feminine or masculine," said Davis, who consulted photos of scholars from a 1960s Ole Miss yearbook for ideas for that character's coordinated sportswear separates in earth tones.
When Skeeter lands employment writing the "Miss Myrna" cleaning hints column for the local newspaper,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], she seeks the help of the help of the title. More than their stain-fighting tricks, she's taken with their stories. So she starts on a journey to record the experiences of Aibileen (Viola Davis), Minny (Octavia Spencer) along with other maids employed by white families.
For Davis, who is African American, creating the costumes for the black maids had special meaning because her grandmother, Nelly Moseley,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], worked as domestic help in Louisiana during the same period of time because the film's.
"In the book, the uniforms were white. We tested white uniforms for that film, and yellow and pink. However they looked like nurse's uniforms,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych]," Davis said. She settled on gray,[link widoczny dla zalogowanych], that is what her grandmother wore. from the uniforms were plain cotton, except for Minny's, that was produced from a gray pinstripe fabric sourced from Los Angeles-based designer James Perse. that sells ends of designer fabric," said Davis. The irony isn't lost on her. "The rest of the fabric was probably accustomed to make shirts!"
-- Booth Moore
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Photos from "The Help," from top: Skeeter Phelan (Emma Stone, back to camera) plays bridge with friends Elizabeth Leefolt (Ahna OReilly, from right), Hilly Holbrook (Bryce Dallas Howard) and Jolene French (Anna Camp), while Aibileen Clark (Viola Davis) looks on.
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